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16×24 Timber Frame Plan

16x24 Timber Frame PlanThis versatile plan could be finished out as a storage shed, a picnic pavilion or even a glamping cabin.  It measures 16’ wide by 24’ deep, with two generous bays. Enclose the entire structure, or enjoy part of it as a delightful porch. The plate height of 9’10” creates a roomy interior. Generous gable-end overhangs make a strong statement.

The drawings include 33 sheets, including renderings, timber schedule, plan, elevation and sectional drawings along with all the piece and joinery details you will need to build this small timber frame. Formatted in instantly-downloadable PDF  for 8 ½” x 11’ paper.  We also include a post and beam conversion plan.

While the plan has an 8″ roof pitch by default,  we have added the dimensions for 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12-inch roof pitches to allow you the option to choose in this set of plans.

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  2. Seismic / earthquake
  3. Heavy snow
  4. Flood potential
  5. Soil instability
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109 thoughts on “16×24 Timber Frame Plan”

      1. It sure is. It is not very common because it is not very strong but as long as you know that going into it and take it into account with the beam sizing you should be ok.

  1. Will these plans be used for steel framing instead of lumber, or would adjustments be needed to be valid from a structural / engineering perspective?

  2. What is the interior clearance between the posts? I’m considering this as a boat shed but the trailer has to be accommodated. Thanks

    1. We don’t have anything ready. We are working on a 20′ king post plan currently. In order to make this wider you would need to add a post or two to help carry the roof loads.

  3. Brice, beautiful plans and a great website. In my part of the country (Connecticut), older frames contain timbers of dimensions rarely exceeding 8 x 8, perhaps 8 x 9 or 10 for larger plates…
    Before I consult an engineer, can you comment on the feasibility of substituting these dimensions for the 12x material in your 16 x 24 frame? Thank you.

    1. Thanks John,
      That frame was originally designed for white pine so if you were going to use something stronger than that, say white oak or Doug fir then yes I think you can use 8×10’s. The piece that is carrying the most loads is the tie beam that spans between the post. So if you keep anyone an 8×12 it would be those members.

  4. Bruce, I want to build a 36×16 open pavilion on my pool deck. I want to match the house roof pitch which is 12/12. I need to build it on a budget. I live in Greenville SC so lumber is available. I am thinking white pine would be the cheapest. Can I adapt this plan to my needs?
    thanks, Jim

    1. It would be quite easy to add another bay to the frame by duplicating the middle posts joinery. Because the frame will be outdoors I would recommend cypress if that is cost prohibitive, I would at least use cypress posts to help prevent rot.

    1. You can make it from treated material but that type of wood tends to be hard, squirrely and you will need to wear a dust mask at a minimum to cut the joinery out of it. It is 8x material so you will need to custom order it anyway. I would recommend that you find a local sawyer that can get you a natural rot resistant wood such as cedar, cypress, white oak or even doug fir.

        1. Two questions:
          1. 16ft X 24 ft dimensions, are they measured post to post or measured including the overhang?
          2. I measured our roof pitch 4.5/12. Or it is suppose to be 4/12?

          Thanks

          1. The 16×24 os outside of post to outside of the posts. There is a 24″ overhang on all 4 sides. You can have a 4.5/12 on your roof. We can create the dimensions for a 4.5/12. Contact us at [email protected] for more information.

  5. Two questions, what do you recommend for enclosure methods due to the distance between posts, and have you ever used southern yellow pine for your timber material? How easy/ difficult is it work with? Thanks, josh

    1. I have worked with yellow pine before, in fact my office is a yellow pine frame. It’s main downside is that it twists and bows a lot depending on where it is grown. It is strong though. I would recommend a stick frame shell on the outside of the frame and a SIP roof.

  6. Could this design be modified to 16′ x 26′ or 16′ x 28′ ?, could it be built with a floor like your timber frame shed design instead of a concrete base ?

    1. Yes you can easily modify them for the additional length but adding 1′ to 2′ to either side of the pavilion. Let me know what length you decide and we will help you sort out the rafter spacing.

  7. So it looks like the Top Plates are 16ft long – meaning that the gable end to gable end is 32ft? What is the 24ft length dimension measured from – outside post to outside post?

    1. To clarify, the dimensions from outside of post to outside of post is 16 feet wide and 24′ long. The overhang around the frame is 2′ which gives you a covered under roof area of 20′ wide by 28′ long. The timbers in the timber list are longer that the timbers you need, this is done on purpose. This allows 2 things to happen. If you order the timbers and one is a little short, it may not belong enough and so you have room on the timber to move the piece up or down so you don’t have joinery where a knot or other defect is.

      1. Hi Brice, Can you tell me how much area the roof is so I can get an idea of pricing for roofing material? I would be using the 8″ pitch.

  8. I have purchased the plans on will be building it in the spring. After looking them over I have a question on how the scarf joint is held together. I would have expected a keyway or something similar to keep the two halves from spreading. Are the knee braces enough to hold the scarf joint?

    1. The total height as designed is 15’8 1/2″ with the 8″ roof pitch. However, included in the plans are details of the other roof pitches from 3″-12″ so you can vary the overall height to get the overall height that you want.

  9. Brice, does this actually have a floor frame and sill beams, or are these height dimensions from the actual ground up?
    I’m grateful for a little advice if you will: I want to build something of this footprint as my wife wants a ‘summer house’ in the garden and I’m thinking around 16×24 would be good. I had looked basing it on Will Beemer’s ‘Tiny Timber Frame’ which is both a bit on the small side but also difficult to make work with our 4 metre ridge height limit (even when I bring the pitch to 8/12).The main problem being the 1’6″ between top of tiebeam and bottom of the plates…
    Is there anything in the TimberFrameHQ portfolio you think might fit the bill?
    Great if you get a chance to respond. Cheers, Nigel

    1. Nigel,
      This plan does not have the timber floor framing and sill beams but we can send you a plan after you purchase this one that has a floor system that you can modify to meet your needs. This plan does include all the different roof pitches so you can get within your require roof pitch.

      1. Cool! Thx Brice. I’m going to order this one ASAP and then ask you for the appropriate floor frame plan. Hopefully there’ll be sufficient head room between floor and bottom of tiebeam. Having said that, we Brits do tend to be rather shorter than you chaps… 😃

        1. All done re the order now Brice, so v grateful when you get the chance re the floor frame plan. Cheers, Nigel

  10. Looking to build one exactly like this but I need the one bay to be 16 foot clear, the other bay can be 10 foot. Any chance you have those plans? I would modify these but un sure dimensions of the beam to span that far. I’m using hemlock.

    You can email me give me the price and any questions.

    1. You should be ok with the timber sizes doing that, you will just need to adjust the rafter layout and play adjust the beam sizes. Please contact us directly for a custom plan quote.

    1. We agree they are big, we tend to oversize them timbers to take into account where this frame is built, some locations have quite a bit of snow loads and the timber size reflect that. Depending on where you live you may be able to reduce the sizes, contact us directly at [email protected]. To be honest, it is easier to find timbers than you think, check out our article at https://timberframehq.com/wood-procurement-timber-frame-diy/ for more information.

      1. Bruce,

        I live in California and will never need to worry about snow loads , however I love the Big Timber look. Would 8x8s work for the main frame considering no roof load? Also , the engineer I spoke to said it would cost me 1500.00 for engineered plans which seems like a lot for a patio cover , are your plans engineered??

        Thanks for your time and love the look of your drawings.

        Joe

      1. I live in Europe (Netherlands) to, did you succeed with the conversion in AutoCAD? If you did, i’am interested in the metric version. I bought this plan 2 years ago and i just got my building permit so i can start building in a few months.

  11. I like this design, but was looking to make it either 16×30 or 16×32 with a loft. Is it just a matter of adding an additional bay?

  12. Can this be butted against a house on one side? I see you can double to get 16W*48L. I would like to enclose 16W*24L for a 3-season room, is this possible? Also would like an 8″ step down from the room to pavilion.
    In Ohio, snow belt some heavy wet snows in early season what is the load? If posts are on 8′ center and span 16′.

  13. I live in Calif. I have some property that has a lot of grey or digger pine left on it after the fire. Most of the Pine, Df, and Cedar are now gone or severely compromised. Grey pine has a tendency of twisting. I just purchased a mill. Im planning on building this plan first with the remaining standing grey pine. I figure that the grey pine should work ok for the larger uprights. Any background with this type of lumber?

    Thx
    Mike B

    1. I do not have any experience with Grey Pine but I am sure it will work. I would recommend calling some timber framers or sawyers in your area and talk to them. There are ways to take the twist out after it occurs when laying out timbers with snap lines. Sounds like the characteristics of yellow pine. Sorry for my delayed response.

  14. Beice,

    I’m thinking of doing a modified design that will allow most of the construction to be done by one person. My thought is to have a completed truss and post frame assembled and raise it into place. Then do the next and so on. After all frames are set and braced, I would then add the timbers between the frames and then the roof framing on top of that in between the main structural frames. Do you have any designs like this? I can send you a sketch, if you send me an email address to send it to.

  15. Hi Brice

    Do you provide a sliding scale for wood sizes based on strength and stress grades? I’m interested in building from different Australian hardwoods that grow locally.

    Kind Regards

    Tony

  16. I would like to build this frame using your Post and Beam Fastener Kit. Does the Kit include instructions on the modifications that have to be made to the plans to accommodate the fasteners?

  17. 1) How long can this be extended without having to add another bent? 28′, 30′ 32′?

    2) I just purchased this plan. I will want to have it modified to make it longer and to add a loft in the rear bay. How do I get this done?

    Thank you.

  18. Do you have any documentation on enclosing the frame? Adding doors an windows etc? Or do you simply clad the structure in 8’x4′ insulated panels?

    1. We simply supply drawings for the frame itself. It is up to you to decide how you would like to finish it… there are many options!

  19. Would it be a problem if the scarf joint was not centred above the post? Having it off centre would avoid combing the mortice/tenon with the scarf joint.

    1. Katrina Williams

      That size could be done with a hip roof, but we currently don’t offer that as a stock plan. You may want to check out our custom design services here

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