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24×36 Timber Frame Barn Home Plan

Is it a barn, or is it a barn home? The choice is yours with this versatile 24×36 timber frame barn home plan!  Three bays on two levels create a total of 1,728 square feet to shape into whatever suits your needs. Add windows and doors to correspond to the rooms you create, or add dormers to bring in extra light to the second-floor space.  The second level ceiling soars to almost fifteen feet above the floor, creating a dramatic, spacious interior. Or, if you choose, you can floor in all or part of the area above the upper bent girth for a storage attic.  The first level could become more living space, a workshop or garage – or a bit of both! If you have a sloping lot, you could modify the plans to create a walkout basement with the first level.

We have designed the frame so you can have 4x walls mounted to the exterior of the frame and keep your foundation at a true 24×36 making the construction process easier and more efficient.  

The plan set includes four pages of 2D and 3D drawings and 33 pages of piece drawings, showing every cut to be made on every timber.  There is also a timber list to make it easy to acquire your lumber and a production list itemizing each frame member and tying each item into the piece drawings. The drawings are formatted in PDF, so you download them instantly once you purchase. And they are sized to print on 24’x36” paper, so you can print them at a local office supply store and see everything.

Check out this plan in our shop: 24×36 Heavy Timber Barn Plan.

 

Plan Guarantee

Important Information:

Timber Frame HQ provides plans for construction purposes but does not oversee the construction. The plan purchaser is responsible for assuring the plan meets local codes and regulations. It is the responsibility of the plan purchaser to obtain any and all structural analysis, engineering, and specifications that may be required in the municipality in which it is to be built. Plan purchaser is to verify all lot conditions and measurements before construction. Purchaser is responsible for additional expenses incurred in order to meet local code and engineering requirements.

Customer understands that the following conditions in your specific area may require additional engineering:

  1. Wind / hurricane / tornado
  2. Seismic / earthquake
  3. Heavy snow
  4. Flood potential
  5. Soil instability
  6. Timber Frame Engineering

Customer understands that HVAC, Plumbing & Electrical will not be included in all plans.

When you purchase a set of plans, you are purchasing a limited copyright license for a design giving you the right to build that structure one time at your location. Your copyright license was granted when you paid the purchase fee. You do not have the right to build the design a second time unless you have a signed agreement with Timber Frame HQ. Please note that copyright law protects “derivative works” the same as it protects the original design. That means that making some changes doesn’t make it a new design. We do not allow modifications of our designs by others, without permission. Your copyright license does not allow another professional to represent our design work as their own.

Timber Frame HQ retains all common law, statutory and other reserved rights, including the copyright. This applies even when you have participated in the development of the design to a significant degree.

71 thoughts on “24×36 Timber Frame Barn Home Plan”

  1. Where do I find the lumber for this I’m use to seeing 4×4 4×6 but is this bigger and are the plans engender plans

  2. Katrina Williams

    The posts are 8×8, the girts, purlins and plates are 8×10, then joists and rafters are 6×8 and the knee braces are 4×6

  3. it says “Purchaser agrees that the use of the plan is for the construction of one house”

  4. Does this plan include a cut list for first floor joists so it can be built for a crawl space foundation?

  5. No, it does not have the first-floor framing plan. If you purchase this plan we can send you another one that has a floor system, it is not this large but you will have the basic dimensions and joinery details for it.

  6. What is the height from the ground floor to the top of the second floor joist? What is the overall length of a corner post?

  7. Katrina Williams

    Eric, the dimension from ground floor to top of second floor joist is 9′-3″. The corner posts are 16′-0″. Hope that helps!

  8. Thank you Katrina. This plan almost looked too good to be true, but with those dimensions you gave, this place must be a real gem when it is done! Have any customers sent back finished photos?

  9. Is this true mortise and tendon construction? With joint details and required sizes ? Thanks Chuck

  10. Yes, this frame has true mortise and tenon joinery. The plans have a complete timber list along with detailed drawings including individual piece drawings.

  11. Hi folks, would like to increase gable and eave overhang to 48″. Would this require a re-design, or just an increase in rafter size?

    Also, do you have a ball-park total board footage so I can quote with sawyer?

  12. Just trying to estimate a cost to build, is there anyway I can get a bill of materials for the timbers required?

  13. What is the best way to include lean-tos on both sides? Is there a way to tie it into the original structure, or would you just recommend adding your Timber Frame Shed Roof Plan (SKU: 4923)? Does the Timber Frame She’d Roof Plan include such a detail? Thanks!

  14. The Timber Frame Shed Plan will great with this plan and is one of the reasons we have it on the site. You can tie it into the 24×36, let us know if you have any questions along the way.

  15. Hiya,

    I’ve just downloaded your sample pergola plans, although I’m looking to build your barn plans.
    Am I correct in thinking your plans are drawn for mill rule?

    I’m using home sawn timber from my rather basic woodmizer. I have built the cabin frame described in Will Beemers “learn to timber frame” book, and found that the leeway in square rule was necessary for my less than perfect timber.

    Is it possible to convert plans from mill rule to square rule by increasing the beam size by half an inch, and cutting a half inch check for joints on non-reference faces?

    Best regards
    Clive

  16. Clive, it depends on the plan and a couple of other factors. Most of the plan used actual size wood vs nominal, meaning they are designed for 7.5″ instead of 8″. So if you cut the timbers to the actual size on the plans things will be much easier for you. If you need to add housing to use square rule, yes you would need to adjust the top of post or beam to make up for the beam sizing. I would recommend getting a set of plans for studying them and let’s figure out the best way to move forward.

  17. Would like to build the 24×36 barn on a sloping hill with first floor as a concrete walk out cellar. Would these plans be suitable for this ?

  18. Yes, this plan would be great for it. You will need to support a couple of posts from above in the walkout portion of the basement but that will not be difficult to sort out.

  19. The questions are amazing! Does anyone actually read the detailed information and instructions provided by this site before asking? If you want engineer drafted documents you pay for engineer drafted documents.

    Your truly, future plan purchaser.

    JM

  20. Is the spacing between posts in side walls and/or end enough to accommodate a standard size single garage door?

  21. There is 10’11 1/4″ between the posts. Do you can get a 10′ door in there. If you need a little wider space you can easily increase the length to dial in the size you want.

  22. You may want to beef up the plates, decrease the rafter spacing and or increase the depth of the rafter. When you get up in the 100 sqft range having an engineer look at the plans is a good idea. In some locations the snow load and then the wind loads make it tricky. Let us know if you need help find an engineer.

  23. What is the overhead clearance on the first floor. Wondering if there is enough space to lift vehicles for maintenance.
    thanks

  24. As drawn it is 8’3 1/2 but you can always add some length to the posts and/or move the floor timbers up to get the additional height you will need.

  25. If I am using green wood when milling, will this wood shrink during my build process or should I not have to worry?

  26. I am using western red cedar for the timber frame and from what I have read the timbers need to be size a little larger due to the softness of the cedar. Can the drawing be supplied taking into account western red cedar, i.e. sized a little larger instead of the current sizing?

  27. Does the 24×36 Barn Home Plan come as a kit ready to put together?
    Can you flip the loft to the opposite side with the kit if available?
    Do you have a team to erect the structure?

  28. Katrina Williams

    Steven, we do not offer kits with all the lumber etc. You can check out our directory to find sources. The loft could be flipped; that would be a custom design. You can check out those service here.

  29. Yacine Benylles

    hi,
    how come i can’t see a beam where all rafters meet at the top (ridge), like i always see on almost all timber frame houses.
    regards

  30. Matthew Stevens

    This frame does not utilize a structural ridge in its construction. It instead has the two purlin plates.

  31. Hi would like to construct this as a bank barn with full 8’ elevation on the second floor . The entry to second would be on the 36 ‘ wall. The lower level would be masonry on the bank elevation then stepping down to grade on the sides . I have approximately 11% grade . Can you help with this ? Thanks

  32. Mathew, I am looking at your 24×36 plan. It looks like the end wall beam is 24 feet continues long my sawyer can only cut 20/8 can a scarf joint be used for span. Ron.

  33. Katrina Williams

    Yes you can use a scarf joint. When in doubt, it is always a good idea to consult an engineer.

  34. Do you know of anyone who used yellow poplar for the 24 x 36 plan – and wondered if the beam sizes would need to be adjusted?

  35. Yes people have used yellow popular before. Beam sizing would depend greatly on your location.

  36. I’ve purchased the BUNDLE and man, there are a lot of plans in there. I’ve settled on this 24×36 barn plan for our main home. I need more light in the second level but I cant figure out how to work around the top plate at 5 foot something. I’ve been trying to design 6′ gable dormers, but keep convincing myself that the top plate needs to be continuous. Has anyone asked for this same layout with second floor gable dormers and can that be done?
    Thanks in advance, great site.

  37. Katrina Williams

    Diane, you would need design/engineering services to determine the size timbers necessary. We do offer those services here.

  38. Can I purchase this plan and then hire a timberframe company to build the structure for me? Or does the limited copyright license only allow the purchaser to build the structure him/herself?

  39. You can see all of the timber sizes here, look on the Specifications tab. We don’t really assume or design our frames to one species of wood. There are too many variables.We do try and design them so they can be built in most places with a #2 Douglas Fir in mind.

  40. You can see all of the timber sizes here, look on the Specifications tab. We don’t really assume or design our frames to one species of wood. There are too many variables. We do try and design them so they can be built in most places with a #2 Douglas Fir in mind.

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