Tying Joist Tenon and Pocket

Tying Joist

This is an exploded view of a tying joist connecting to a shed frame’s long sill.

The tying joist prevents the sills from spreading out at the middle of their lengths.
It is usually pegged, and the peg is cut off flush with the sill’s top.

It can also be used in second-floor systems between tie beams.

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5 thoughts on “Tying Joist Tenon and Pocket”

  1. Hi,

    Is the tenon on the tying joist the same depth as the other drop in joists or is it deeper? I can’t tell from the pic.


  2. I will defer to Jim on the exact dimensions in the images, but I would go with a 5″ tenon. The goal of this joint is to help stabilize the sill plate, help prevent it from spreading, bowing or twisting. All of these situations would put this joint into tension which dictates the longer tenon.

  3. The tying joist standard tenon is 4″ long from the shoulder. With the peg hole being 1 1/2″ off the housing shoulder. Draw bore and peg with 1″ peg.
    Good luck and keep asking questions.

    Jim Rogers

    PS We don’t use dovetails for this joint. The industry has found that when the timber with the dove tail shrinks as it drys out, the dove tail is not as wide as it was when it was first cut, and therefore can pull out a bit. This is not good. Although it doesn’t show, tenons and pegs are stronger. Use hardwood peg with taper for draw boring.

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