Is it a barn or is it a barn home? The choice is yours with this versatile 24x36 timber frame barn home plan! Three bays on two levels create a total of 1,728 square feet to shape into whatever suits your needs. Add windows and doors to correspond to the rooms you create, or you could even add dormers to bring in extra light to the second floor space. The second level ceiling soars to almost fifteen feet above the floor, creating a dramatic, spacious interior. Or if you choose, you can floor in all or part of the area above the upper bent girth for a storage attic. The first level could become more living space, or a workshop or garage – or a bit of both! If you have a sloping lot, you could even modify the plans to create a walkout basement with the first level.
Plan Options:
- Purchase Plan - Our plans provides detailed, easy-to-follow digital blueprints, perfect for DIY enthusiasts aiming to build their own timber frame structure.
- Modify This Plan - Like this plan but need it change it a little, what about engineered? Don't worry we got your back when it comes any and all details.
- Get a quote for a Ready-To-Raise Timber Frame Kit - Like this plan? Use our online calculator to get a quote for a complete kit. Need it modified a little, we can do that too.
This plan is also included in the Master Plan Bundle and the Timber Frame Home Plan Bundle 1.
We understand that every outdoor space is unique, so we offer extensive customization options for our plans. Choose from various sizes, roof styles, and finishes to match your style and landscape. Our design team is dedicated to helping you create the perfect pavilion that reflects your vision.
Here's How You Can Reach Us:
- Phone: Speak directly with our friendly experts by calling 888-552-9379. We're available 9-5, M-F to answer your questions and provide personalized advice.
- Email: Prefer to write to us? Send your inquiries, ideas, or feedback to projects@timberframehq.com. We strive to respond to all emails within one business day.
- Online Contact Form: Fill out the contact form below. It's a quick and easy way to get in touch, and we'll get back to you promptly.
What's Included
We take immense pride in our team of exceptionally skilled timber frame designers. Each member is not only equipped with the finest tools but also possesses a profound understanding of how different materials intricately come together to realize your vision. This deep expertise in both design and material synergy is crucial in crafting the ideal timber frame structure tailored just for you.
Our commitment to excellence extends to our engineering team, specialists in timber frame structures, many of whom hold doctorates in their field. Sharing your passion for timber framing, our engineers work closely with you, ensuring that every aspect of the frame's design is customized to suit your specific location. This collaborative process guarantees that you receive all necessary documentation for permits, including detailed engineered reaction diagrams, ensuring your construction proceeds smoothly and stays on schedule.
The culmination of this meticulous process is a comprehensive set of construction drawings. These detailed plans not only provide a clear guide for your kit's assembly but also include a complete list of timbers and fasteners, serving as an invaluable reference throughout the installation of your frame. Our goal is to ensure that every step, from initial design to final construction, is seamless, transparent, and perfectly aligned with your project's needs.
After we've collaboratively chosen the ideal wood type for your project, we proceed to source the highest quality timber through our network of trusted mills. Ensuring that every piece meets our exacting standards, we then transport the timber to one of our cutting facilities. There, the joinery is meticulously crafted using CNC machines. Every joint, drilling, mortise, and tenon is cut with precision, adhering to tight tolerances for impeccable quality and fit.
Following the cutting process, all timbers are systematically labeled according to the production numbers assigned during the creation of your model and plans. This meticulous process ensures that every component of your timber frame is prepared with the utmost attention to detail, ready for the next phase of your project.
Included with your package are all the pegs, fasteners, screws, and connectors you need to put your ready-to-raise frame together. You will also get a detailed list for you to refer to while raising your frame.
We carefully package and securely transport your timber frame and all necessary hardware directly to your location. In sync with you, we'll coordinate the delivery schedule, ensuring that we agree on an approximate time on the designated date. To facilitate a smooth and safe unloading process, it's important to have equipment on hand capable of lifting up to 5,000 lbs. Once everything is delivered and in place, the exciting phase of bringing your project to life begins.
At Timber Frame HQ, we embrace the philosophy of 'One Person, One Project.' This approach ensures that each client is paired with a dedicated Project Manager who will be your point of contact throughout the entire project. We believe in offering personalized, consistent support to make your journey with us as smooth and fulfilling as possible.
Our commitment extends beyond just providing exceptional timber frames. As your construction resource, we'll be by your side for the duration of your project, ready to offer expert advice, support, and answers to all your queries. Our goal is to make the process of raising your timber frame not just successful, but also a deeply rewarding experience.
We invite you to visit our 'About Us' page to learn more about our values, our team, and how we can bring your timber framing vision to life with a touch of personal care and professional excellence.
Our team can provide you with a complete Ready To Raise™ Enclosure System for your project, whether just for your roof or a complete enclosure. We will work with you to sort out the best options and product, then deliver it with all the window and door openings and the electrical chase cut-out ready for installation. You can read more about your options in our in-depth article "Timber Frame Enclosure Systems".
Where do I find the lumber for this I’m use to seeing 4×4 4×6 but is this bigger and are the plans engender plans
Aaron, there are timber suppliers listed here: https://timberframehq.com/find-your-team/?zoom=15&is_mile=1&directory_radius=0&keywords=&address=&directory_radius=0¢er=&address_type=&category=8
Why is this drawing for one house?
I don’t understand your question, can you clarify it for me?
Is this plan based on 10×10 timbers?
The posts are 8×8, the girts, purlins and plates are 8×10, then joists and rafters are 6×8 and the knee braces are 4×6
it says “Purchaser agrees that the use of the plan is for the construction of one house”
Yes, when you purchase the plan you can only use it for one building, if you build it again you need to return and purchase the plan again.
Does this plan include a cut list for first floor joists so it can be built for a crawl space foundation?
No, it does not have the first-floor framing plan. If you purchase this plan we can send you another one that has a floor system, it is not this large but you will have the basic dimensions and joinery details for it.
Do the plans provide guidance on securing posts to foundations, slabs, piers, etc.?
We have found that there are so many possible solutions to include in the plans if you head to https://timberframehq.com/construction-details/masonryconcrete-to-timber/ you will find some options. If you don’t see anything that works for you let send us an email at support@timberframehq.com.
Can the floor joists be left out of one of the bays to create a full height ceiling?
Yes!
What is the height from the ground floor to the top of the second floor joist? What is the overall length of a corner post?
Eric, the dimension from ground floor to top of second floor joist is 9′-3″. The corner posts are 16′-0″. Hope that helps!
Thank you Katrina. This plan almost looked too good to be true, but with those dimensions you gave, this place must be a real gem when it is done! Have any customers sent back finished photos?
What is the pitch of this roof?
Stephen, the roof pitch is 10 in 12
Do your plans include information on exterior walls or guidelines on what to do with them?
Is this true mortise and tendon construction? With joint details and required sizes ? Thanks Chuck
Yes, this frame has true mortise and tenon joinery. The plans have a complete timber list along with detailed drawings including individual piece drawings.
Hi folks, would like to increase gable and eave overhang to 48″. Would this require a re-design, or just an increase in rafter size?
Also, do you have a ball-park total board footage so I can quote with sawyer?
A slight increase in rafter size may be needed depending on the snow loads in your area. This frame has 6,875 bf in it.
Just trying to estimate a cost to build, is there anyway I can get a bill of materials for the timbers required?
How many feet is the knee wall on the 2nd floor? Thanks
Kristin, the framing for that is 5′-8 1/2″
What is the best way to include lean-tos on both sides? Is there a way to tie it into the original structure, or would you just recommend adding your Timber Frame Shed Roof Plan (SKU: 4923)? Does the Timber Frame She’d Roof Plan include such a detail? Thanks!
The Timber Frame Shed Plan will great with this plan and is one of the reasons we have it on the site. You can tie it into the 24×36, let us know if you have any questions along the way.
Hiya,
I’ve just downloaded your sample pergola plans, although I’m looking to build your barn plans.
Am I correct in thinking your plans are drawn for mill rule?
I’m using home sawn timber from my rather basic woodmizer. I have built the cabin frame described in Will Beemers “learn to timber frame” book, and found that the leeway in square rule was necessary for my less than perfect timber.
Is it possible to convert plans from mill rule to square rule by increasing the beam size by half an inch, and cutting a half inch check for joints on non-reference faces?
Best regards
Clive
Clive, it depends on the plan and a couple of other factors. Most of the plan used actual size wood vs nominal, meaning they are designed for 7.5″ instead of 8″. So if you cut the timbers to the actual size on the plans things will be much easier for you. If you need to add housing to use square rule, yes you would need to adjust the top of post or beam to make up for the beam sizing. I would recommend getting a set of plans for studying them and let’s figure out the best way to move forward.
Would like to build the 24×36 barn on a sloping hill with first floor as a concrete walk out cellar. Would these plans be suitable for this ?
Yes, this plan would be great for it. You will need to support a couple of posts from above in the walkout portion of the basement but that will not be difficult to sort out.
The questions are amazing! Does anyone actually read the detailed information and instructions provided by this site before asking? If you want engineer drafted documents you pay for engineer drafted documents.
Your truly, future plan purchaser.
JM
What size are the rafters and what snow load are the rated for?
The rafters are 6×8’s. The snow load would depend on the species of wood that you use.
Is the spacing between posts in side walls and/or end enough to accommodate a standard size single garage door?
There is 10’11 1/4″ between the posts. Do you can get a 10′ door in there. If you need a little wider space you can easily increase the length to dial in the size you want.
would this design work for 100 pound snowload using eastern white pine?
thank you
You may want to beef up the plates, decrease the rafter spacing and or increase the depth of the rafter. When you get up in the 100 sqft range having an engineer look at the plans is a good idea. In some locations the snow load and then the wind loads make it tricky. Let us know if you need help find an engineer.
What is the overhead clearance on the first floor. Wondering if there is enough space to lift vehicles for maintenance.
thanks
As drawn it is 8’3 1/2 but you can always add some length to the posts and/or move the floor timbers up to get the additional height you will need.
If I am using green wood when milling, will this wood shrink during my build process or should I not have to worry?
Yes, it will shrink as it dries. Check out our article at https://timberframehq.com/green-vs-dried-timbers/ for more information.
I am using western red cedar for the timber frame and from what I have read the timbers need to be size a little larger due to the softness of the cedar. Can the drawing be supplied taking into account western red cedar, i.e. sized a little larger instead of the current sizing?
You may be ok depending on where you are located. Reach out to us at design@timberframehq.com for more information on modifying the plans.
Does the 24×36 Barn Home Plan come as a kit ready to put together?
Can you flip the loft to the opposite side with the kit if available?
Do you have a team to erect the structure?
Steven, we do not offer kits with all the lumber etc. You can check out our directory to find sources. The loft could be flipped; that would be a custom design. You can check out those service here.
hi,
how come i can’t see a beam where all rafters meet at the top (ridge), like i always see on almost all timber frame houses.
regards
This frame does not utilize a structural ridge in its construction. It instead has the two purlin plates.
Hi would like to construct this as a bank barn with full 8’ elevation on the second floor . The entry to second would be on the 36 ‘ wall. The lower level would be masonry on the bank elevation then stepping down to grade on the sides . I have approximately 11% grade . Can you help with this ? Thanks
Mark, please check out our Custom Design page here– we can certainly help with that.
Thanks just completed it
Mathew, I am looking at your 24×36 plan. It looks like the end wall beam is 24 feet continues long my sawyer can only cut 20/8 can a scarf joint be used for span. Ron.
Yes you can use a scarf joint. When in doubt, it is always a good idea to consult an engineer.
Do you know of anyone who used yellow poplar for the 24 x 36 plan – and wondered if the beam sizes would need to be adjusted?
Yes people have used yellow popular before. Beam sizing would depend greatly on your location.
I’ve purchased the BUNDLE and man, there are a lot of plans in there. I’ve settled on this 24×36 barn plan for our main home. I need more light in the second level but I cant figure out how to work around the top plate at 5 foot something. I’ve been trying to design 6′ gable dormers, but keep convincing myself that the top plate needs to be continuous. Has anyone asked for this same layout with second floor gable dormers and can that be done?
Thanks in advance, great site.
That modification can be done. Tops plates do not have to be continuous. We may need to modify somethings but it is possible.
I want a barn maybe 24 x36 with living quarters on top and 2 stalls with storage/ laundry room on bottom. Can I build with 6×6 timbers?
Diane, you would need design/engineering services to determine the size timbers necessary. We do offer those services here.
Can I purchase this plan and then hire a timberframe company to build the structure for me? Or does the limited copyright license only allow the purchaser to build the structure him/herself?
You may hire the structure to be built.
Is the roof pitch a 12/12?
The roof pitch is 10:12
What is the height of the frame at the peak?
The height to the apex of the rafters is 25′- 1 1/4″
What is the size of column and trusses? And what type of wood used?
You can see all of the timber sizes here, look on the Specifications tab. We don’t really assume or design our frames to one species of wood. There are too many variables.We do try and design them so they can be built in most places with a #2 Douglas Fir in mind.
You can see all of the timber sizes here, look on the Specifications tab. We don’t really assume or design our frames to one species of wood. There are too many variables. We do try and design them so they can be built in most places with a #2 Douglas Fir in mind.