Tying Joist Tenon and Pocket

Tying JoistThis is an exploded view of a tying joist that connects to a long sill in a shed frame.

The tying joist prevents the sills from spreading out at the middle of their lengths.
It is usually pegged and the peg is cut off flush with the top of the sill.

It can also be used in second floor systems between tie beams.

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5 Responses to Tying Joist Tenon and Pocket

  1. David November 15, 2013 at 7:37 am #

    Do you have a version of this done with a dovetail joint?

  2. Dave Severance January 2, 2016 at 7:25 am #

    Hi,

    Is the tenon on the tying joist the same depth as the other drop in joists or is it deeper? I can’t tell from the pic.

    Thanks

    • Brice Cochran January 2, 2016 at 7:02 pm #

      I will defer to Jim on the exact dimensions in the images, but I would go with a 5″ tenon. The goal of this joint is to help stabilize the sill plate, help prevent it from spreading, bowing or twisting. All of these situations would put this joint into tension which dictates the longer tenon.

  3. Jim Rogers January 2, 2016 at 7:46 pm #

    The tying joist standard tenon is 4″ long from the shoulder. With the peg hole being 1 1/2″ off the housing shoulder. Draw bore and peg with 1″ peg.
    Good luck and keep asking questions.

    Jim Rogers

    PS We don’t use dovetails for this joint. The industry has found that when the timber with the dove tail shrinks as it drys out, the dove tail is not as wide as it was when it was first cut, and therefore can pull out a bit. This is not good. Although it doesn’t show, tenons and pegs are stronger. Use hardwood peg with taper for draw boring.

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